Tasty tapas more than cut the mustard at Sea Rocket

By Dr. Ink

There’s a bar on Rush Street in Chicago – Pippin’s Tavern – that holds fond memories for me. A few years ago my significant other and I got off the four-hour flight from San Diego, schlepped our luggage to the hotel and sauntered out to a hot July afternoon in the Windy City, heading immediately to Pippin’s. Why? Air-conditioning, cold beer – and free peanuts.

I’ll never understand in this litigious age how Pippins allows it, but as patrons munch their peanuts they are permitted – encouraged, even – to throw the shells on the floor. When lots of people are eating, as they usually are, this creates a rather interesting obstacle course for women in heels who decide they need to toddle to the toidy after their third Old Style. It’s amazing no one gets hurt – and terrific entertainment from the bar stool.

Free peanuts might not seem like a big deal, but when was the last time you got something free to eat at a bar? Sure, the Four Seasons probably ponies up a dish of salty snacks as you sip your $15 martini, but I’m talking about a place we regular folks can afford.

Can’t think of one? Me neither. That’s why I grabbed a pal and made my way down 30th Street to Sea Rocket Bistro in North Park a few nights ago. They had just begun advertising their “buy a pint and get a free tapa” promotion. Being the curmudgeon I am, I wanted to see if this was just a marketing ploy to get people in for dinner – that is, a bite that just makes you hungrier – or if it was a real menu of tapas.

So imagine my surprise when my friend and I slid onto a bar stool at 5 p.m. on a Wednesday (we were the only ones there, as the restaurant had just opened) and were handed a menu with count ’em 14 different tapas from which to choose. And better – or worse if you are an unadventurous eater, as my companion is – the tapas are inventive and unique for the neighborhood.

But before I get to the menu, let’s set the scene. Sea Rocket Bistro is named for the mustard-family plant – sea rocket – that grows along the coast. This is not to be confused with plain “rocket,” which is the European and more descriptive name for what we Yanks call “arugula.” Sea Rocket co-owner Elena Rivellino, who was keeping bar during my visit, said she and partner Dennis Stein chose “Sea Rocket” because “it invited our coastal/edible idea.” The duo is committed to local vendors and suppliers, she said, so the idea of using a plant found nearby that also describes the restaurant’s interest in seafood was a winner.

Sea Rocket is in The Linkery’s former hideaway at the corner of that 30th and Upas Street jog where no drivers seem to make a full stop. Parking can be a bit of an issue at that location with three restaurants, a bar and some shops vying for spaces. But who isn’t game for walking a few blocks on a spectacular San Diego evening?

Inside, I was disappointed to find the restaurant uncomfortably stuffy on a not-so-warm day. Rivellino immediately supplied a carafe of ice water and two glasses (and we all know Dr. Ink loves bars that serve water without being asked), which took the edge off the heat.

As the bartender pulled a couple of IPAs for us from one of the bar’s five taps (bottled microbrews and wine are also available), I looked around. A couple of intriguing paintings are displayed on one wall with a placard telling about the local artist. A shelf above the bar register holds a collection of antique pitchers (“We’re going to do something different there but we just haven’t decided what yet,” Rivellino said). The addition of a mirrored wall behind the bar gives the illusion of spaciousness in the cozy restaurant. A couple of flat-screen TVs overhead were silently playing sports shows while the sound system carried an eclectic variety of music from reggae to alternative rock to Latin.

The menu, on a large sheet of paper, begins with the list of tapas. I like that Sea Rocket is using tapas as the Spanish do – small plates with drinks before dinner – rather than the cutesy “make your own meal” concept some American restaurants push.

Yes, Rivellino informed us, our two $5 beers qualified us for one free tapa each. But heck, I told my friend, at two bucks apiece, why wouldn’t we try a few more? He was game – well, sort of. The creativity in the tapas menu intrigued me but he found it a bit intimidating. Still, with 14 choices even he was able to find a favorite.

Here is what we had to choose from (Sea Rocket’s menu changes occasionally). The lima bean spread, honey garlic butter, avocado dipping oil and Gouda cheese and honey are all served with bread from Cardamom Bakery around the corner. For seafood, there is fish pate, grilled sardines, poached sardine fillets and tuna with capers. Vegetarian options include dressed roasted beets, lima bean salad, radish bites with lima bean dip, macadamia nuts, mixed green olives and a grilled sweet onion.

Much to my companion’s dismay I ordered the lima bean spread, grilled sardine and beets, aiming to try some of the more unusual menu items. He asked for the cheese with honey.

My three tapas arrived on one plate. It was a taste sensation to go from a dip of the super-fresh ciabatta in the mild bean spread (think hummus) to a fork of salty sardine and on to the vinaigrette-enhanced beets. The richness of the Ale Smith beer added an extra note of hops and citrus, making for a delicious combination.

Surprisingly, the large sardine (not the tiny canned ones used on pizzas) appeared on a wooden stick. Rivellino said the cook finds skewering the sardines makes them easier to turn and they hold their shape better.

My friend, who refused to even try it, said smugly, “There is something vaguely unappealing about a fishcicle.” But I was able to prod him into tasting the lima bean dip, which he admitted was better than he would have imagined.

Earlier I’d rolled my eyes when he ordered the cheese and honey, scolding him for choosing such a pedestrian dish. But once I tasted the Winchester Gouda layered on a chunk of ciabatta with honey dripping from it, I had to apologize. The creaminess of the cheese made the honey less sweet while the bread absorbed both. Rivellino said they had added that tapa because she found herself often combining the bread/cheese/honey from another starter and eating it together.

Our check, delivered in a seashell, was $15.23 for two pints and four tapas (two free). For such tasty, healthy bar snacks? I call that peanuts.

Sea Rocket Bistro

www.searocketbistro.com

3382 30th Street

San Diego, 92104

(619) 255-7049

Happy Hour: Daily 5-7 p.m.

Ratings:

Drinks: 4

No liquor, but five taps and a cask all from local breweries. On Wednesdays, wine by the glass (20 options) is half-price. Sangria is available too.

Food: 5

Wow, what a fantastic selection. And you don’t have to be a foodie.

Value: 5

Sure, I know the free tapa just makes my beer $3. But I like that you can try multiple tapas for $2 each.

Service: 5

Rivellino recommended pairings and was still attentive even when the restaurant began to fill.

Duration: 5

Seven nights a week ’til 7 p.m.

Note about the ratings: Each category is based on 1-5 glasses, with 5 being best. Drinks and food are rated as to quantity and quality, while duration is based on the number of days and hours Happy Hour is offered. Value and service are self-explanatory.

Want to make me happy? E-mail Dr. Ink about your favorite Happy Hour and I’ll drop by with my stethoscope: [email protected].