
Consistency is the Secret to Café’s Success
By Maria Desiderata Montana
Senior Food Critic
Owner David Owen and Chef/Owner Robert Weycker have operated Café Eleven on University Avenue in Hillcrest for 24 years. “I believe the secret to my restaurant’s success is consistency above anything else,” said Owen.
I felt as if I were dining in a friendly country inn as I watched Owen stroll through his restaurant, greeting guests and walking them to their tables. The cozy country dining room, with artwork (available for purchase) adorning the walls, has its own sophisticated mood, while a private bar and outdoor patio attract loyalists to a more casual option. “I’ve seen generations of families come through my doors,” continued Owen. “I am here every day and every night and my guests are always commenting that our place feels like home.”
Chef Weycker has proved to be a talented craftsman, teasing the best results from made-from-scratch country French cuisine with classically rich sauces and fresh ingredients. Although carrot soup may seem like the perfect winter food, the creamy carrot soup ($5.95), swirled with what tasted like a hint of cheddar, offered a certain sweetness that was perfect for summer. In addition, the mushrooms caps a la Sheri stuffed with scallops, topped with Swiss cheese, and baked in garlic butter, had a wonderful blend of subtle spices that accentuated every bite ($9.75).
For lunch, opt for the daily quiche or the Cobb salad topped with sliced chicken, bacon, hard-boiled eggs, diced tomatoes, bleu cheese crumbles, avocado and Cobb dressing ($9.00). The shrimp cocktail salad on a bed of spring greens is another nice choice, served with fresh tomato and a special dressing ($8). Check out the three different economical lunch specials ($6): soup and salad, macaroni and cheese and a salad, or chicken wings with french fries or house salad.
Since a nice choice of wild game graces the dinner menu, I suggest the rack of lamb marinated in fresh herbs and seasonings, then oven roasted and served with a rosemary demi-glace ($25.95) or the Long Island roasted duckling with apples and onions, finished with a green peppercorn sauce ($23.95). Soup and salad are included with every entrée. The delicious salad dressings are made from scratch and include Dijon tarragon, basil vinaigrette, herb tomato, and raspberry poppy seed.
I can’t imagine my life without my favorite Chicken Wellington, and neither should you. Try this savory chicken breast stuffed with spinach, herb cheese and toasted almonds, wrapped in a puffed pastry shell, baked and served with a raspberry sauce ($17.95). If you’re in a New York state of mind, try the New York steak (au poivre) pressed in black pepper and seasonings, and served with a brandy and peppercorn cream demi-glace ($23.95).
Unique seafood selections include shrimp Floridian, which is shrimp baked with bleu cheese, sun-dried tomato and wine under a pastry crust ($11.95), New Zealand mussels poached in white wine with garlic butter and basil ($13.95) or fresh king salmon broiled and served in a light cream sauce of Dijon mustard and capers ($23.95).
I didn’t have a chance to try the Italian-inspired selections, but I plan to go back soon and try the carpaccio tenderloin of filet mignon cured in cognac, shallots and fresh herbs with capers and olive oil ($11.95), the ravioli filled with cheese and served with a light herbed cream sauce ($9.50) and the Pasta Sarah with fresh angel hair pasta tossed with smoked salmon, fresh dill and cream ($10.95).
Sunday brunch and a regular super-saver menu ($13.95) is available Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday nights (not available holidays) and includes an entrée, soup or garden salad, vegetables and warm bread. Friday and Saturday nights enjoy a wine dinner for two ($49.95) with certain appetizer and entrée selections. Wine selections include a choice of Trinity Oaks cabernet sauvignon or pinot grigio or Camelot cabernet sauvignon or chardonnay. A shared dessert is included with coffee or tea.
Satisfy your sweet tooth with one of the popular coffee cocktails. The original Mocharita™ consisting of Café tequila, Torani chocolate, half and half, and a chilled espresso shot will keep you happy and awake ($6.50). Add a piece of chocolate bourbon pecan pie ($6.95) and you’ll be dancing in your seat. The music changes daily, however Owen was in an 80s disco mood the night I was there… I loved it!
Cafe Eleven is located at 1440 University Avenue in Hillcrest. For more information, phone: (619) 260-8023 or go to the Web site: www.cafeelevensd.com.
Maria Desiderata Montana is an award-winning food and wine journalist, editor, and published author based in San Diego. She gained an appreciation of European cuisine from her parents, who were born and raised in Calabria, Italy. Visit her website at www.sandiegofoodfinds.com.
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