Nico’s Fish Market, according to owner Nico Gibbons, is more than fish, it’s a taste of home.

“I have such a passion for San Diego and all the great things about it,” Gibbons said. “It’s the ocean; the laid-back vibes; we have the best fishing in the country; great surf; great weather. You aren’t only buying a fresh product, you are buying a product that represents San Diego.”

Born in Point Loma, but raised on the water between Dana Landing, Crystal Pier, and La Jolla Cove, Gibbons’ first childhood catch was “a simple rockfish,” and with that a lifetime.

“It started with me and my buddies and local red rock cod,” Gibbons remembered. “There is nothing like being young and trying to reel in a heavy stubborn white seabass.”

At 18, Gibbons began as a bus boy at El Pescador Fish Market in La Jolla, working his way up to fish monger, while in college.

“A year in I realized this is something I want to do,” Gibbons said. “I had a binder that had a pencil logo of Nico’s Fish Market. I wanted to learn everything I could about the fish market business.”

Gibbons then spent four months in Mexico City, coinciding with the early days of the Covid-19 pandemic, apprenticing under renowned seafood chef Federico Rigoletti at his restaurant Contramar.

“I always knew about quality control with fish,” Gibbons said. “But what flavors and tastes can I come up with that compliment the freshness of what we catch in San Diego? I learned a lot in terms of what can make that freshness of that fish taste delicious.”

After two-and-a-half years of running pop-ups around the county, Nico’s Fish Market opened its brick-and-mortar location at 745 Emerald St. in what was formerly La Perla Cocina Mexicana, steps from the water.

“When you have a fresh product like the fish we are catching on our boat, simplicity is the ultimate sophistication,” Gibbons said. “Let the freshness of that fish do the talking. Simple flavors and that fish is going to taste delicious. Just get that fish on the grill do some salt and pepper or lemon garlic butter marinade. Don’t overcomplicate fresh fish.”

The menu features today’s catch with the winter season bringing swordfish, halibut, red rock cod, and yellowtail.

“Seventy percent of our fish are from our local fishermen here in San Diego,” Gibbons said. “The rest comes from a couple of good Baja fishermen that focus on the grouper fish – I love that fish it’s amazing on the grill. I like trying to get that in the case. When it’s not the main tuna season, I get tuna from Hawaiian Fresh Seafood.”

Everything starts at the fish case.

“[The customer] picks the fish out of the case and we cut it and give it to the guy from the grill,” Gibbons said. “At Nico’s, we are very serious about our quality and transparency.”

Poke is a signature item. From Mexico City, Gibbons brought La Chinesca – a base of crisped rice, topped with various accouterments – a “sophisticated poke bowl.”

“I grew up working wholesale and I know quality control with tuna,” Gibbons said. “People love our poke.”

Oysters and ceviche fill out the menu and for Gibbons, it wouldn’t be San Diego without the melding of seafood with tacos and burritos.

“We try to simplify the menu as much as we can,” Gibbons said. “The only thing that is going to change [on the menu] is what did my buddies catch and what am I going to fillet and put in the case?”

As an eater, Gibbons called ‘The Nico Burrito’ his order of choice.

“I’ve always been a big burrito dude,” he said. “It’s the local red rock cod panko breaded and put on the grill in a lemon butter marinade. The type of fish – that flakiness – mixed with that panko vibes with the other ingredients in the burrito and it’s a really good bite.”

Eight weeks into the realization of a teenage dream, Gibbons called complacency the death of quality.

“I tell my team every day is day one,” he said. “Just because we were crowded yesterday don’t get too stoked. Tomorrow is a new day, let’s stay focused and humble. I live for this. Nothing better than using your hands to fillet the fish and provide a product to your customers.”

NICO’S FISH MARKET

Where: 745 Emerald St.

Hours: 11:30-8 p.m. daily.

Contacto: 858-352-6432.