Come On, Get Happy: Kensigton Club and Kensington Grill

Who Ken ask for anything more?

From dive to delight in 15 seconds

Por Dr. Ink

Kensington reminds me of the weekend Harley rider done up in leather who is really a tie-wearing accountant — it tries to be urban, but it’s really the home of suburbanites who can’t quite stomach living in tract homes.

That point became even clearer to me as I entered the Kensington Club (“Ken Club”) for happy hour a few weeks ago. On nights and weekends, the Ken Club is a Casbah-ish site for local bands that attracts young hipsters from outside the neighborhood. But at 5:30 p.m. on a Monday, it was a movie house for a handful of old guys bellied up for their post-work libations.

Yes, I said movie house. Two of the three TV screens were showing a British film (with captions, in case proper English is a challenge, I suppose) while the third was flashing the “Poltergeist” fuzz channel. No Monday Night Football here.

I asked Todd, the bartender, if there were any happy hour specials. He said, “Everything here is special.” Later, when I asked about the cost of our drinks, he said, “We don’t have a happy hour because our prices are low all the time.”

While I disagree with the strategy, his explanation rings true: my companion’s Maker’s Mark and soda was $5 with a healthy pour, a good price at any hour. My Green Flash IPA was also $5. I wanted to ask Todd if every drink is $5 — like Vegas on New Year’s Eve — but I didn’t want to interrupt his clear fascination with the movie.

Hungry and wanting to watch the game, we settled up and walked a few doors down to the Kensington Grill, a restaurant with a large bar. The Grill is owned by the same folks who run the new Cucina Urbana (formerly Laurel) in Bankers Hill.

Going from the Ken Club to the Grill reinforced my biker/accountant notion about Kensington. Sticky floors and rickety bar stools gave way to candles and smooth jazz. A bawdy flick was exchanged for muted football on a flat screen, neatly tucked away at the end of the bar. Indifferent, cool service turned to polished and eager.

And the drinks were still $5. Wells and sangria, that is, plus martinis on Mondays. Beer is $3.50 in addition to a few wine specials.

The other happy hour deals at the Grill from 5-7 p.m. include some really terrific “small plates” that turned out to be not so small. My friend and I worried we were ruining our dinners when the pork spare ribs ($6.50) and blue cheese fondue ($7) arrived at the bar. The ribs, marinated in soy and chili, were so generous we couldn’t finish them. That might be because the ramekin of baked blue cheese, artichokes and caramelized shallots served with warm pita triangles was addictive and required our full attention.

The bar at the Grill has about 20 seats with a few tables scattered nearby. At 6 on a Monday it was about half full with several patrons clearly making a meal from the happy hour menu, which also includes chorizo-stuffed olives, fish tacos, meatloaf sliders and a short-rib quesadilla. Bartender Heidi was super efficient, taking orders, arranging setups that included place mats and fabric napkins, and making drinks for not just the bar but the restaurant too. I was impressed when a couple at the bar asked Heidi how the Grill’s chef makes the macaroni and cheese they were enjoying — she disappeared for a few moments and then returned to explain the recipe in detail to them.

I was too full to try the sangria after apps and a martini, but I was intrigued to hear Heidi say they “carry over” the glass jar from day to day, allowing the fruit and wine to infuse over time. Each glassful was ladled out of the jar as if we were in Andalusia, not Adams Avenue.

But that “where am I?” aspect is Kensington’s charm. Park your Range Rover at the curb and slouch into the Ken Club to throw back some stiff cocktails, or roar up on your Hog and loosen your tie (and belt) for a more refined experience at the Grill — its suburban living in the city at its best.

Kensington Club

4079 Adams Ave.

San Diego, CA 92116

(619) 284-2848

No Web site, and no happy hour specials.

Parrilla Kensington

4055 Avenida Adams
San Diego, CA 92116

(619) 281-4014

Happy Hour: Daily, 5-7 p.m.

Ratings (Club/Grill):

Drinks: 4/5

I don’t understand why anyone would order a draft beer at the Club when top-shelf cocktails are the same price. The $5 martinis (Mondays only) at the Grill are standout.

Food: 0/5

No food at the Club, but it’s a dive bar so you know that going in. Excellent eats at the Grill.

Value: 5/4

Can’t beat those $5 drinks at the Club. Non-discounted specialty drinks at the Grill are $9-12 (stick with the Happy Hour offerings) and the apps aren’t cheap, but they’re delicious.

Service: 3/5

Todd (Club) was more interested in the movie than us, but the drinks made up for some of that. Heidi (Grill) was a smiling whirling dervish.

Duration: 5/5

The Club has good prices all the time, while the Grill has happy hour seven days a week.

Note about the ratings: Each category is based on 1-5 glasses, with 5 being best. Drinks and food are rated as to quantity and quality, while duration is based on the number of days and hours Happy Hour is offered. Value and service are self-explanatory.

Want to make me happy? E-mail Dr. Ink about your favorite Happy Hour and I’ll drop by with my stethoscope: [email protected].