Little Italy’s latest newcomer sets you straight on a road to Rome.

The meals at Roman Wolves are a departure from the Sicilian fare offered at its Park Boulevard parent restaurant, Rusticucina. Here at Roman Wolves, customers encounter the three sauces that helped make modern Rome famous: cacio e pepe, carbonara, and amatriciana. Or if you’re hankering for pizza, the lightweight crust and fresh non-acidic tomato sauce prove a refreshing departure from all other familiar styles of pies, especially if you opt for the “folded pizza” found commonly throughout The Eternal City.

The story behind the restaurant’s name centers on twin brothers conceived by a human mother and Mars, the god of war. The king in the province where they lived ordered the twins killed for fear they would take over his throne. So they were sent down the Tiber River in a basket and left to die. But a female wolf found them washed ashore and nurtured them until they were discovered by a shepherd. Eventually, the twins helped overthrow the king and went on to Rome.

By the time we finished reading the narrative printed on the menu, a bowl of wildly addicting complimentary potato chips arrived. They’re softened slightly by cacio e pepe sauce, which is a thick blend of butter, pecorino romano cheese and black pepper. We polished them off like ravenous gladiators as we resisted the temptation to ask for more.

An appetizer of three baby artichokes helped steer us from doing so. The dainty chokes are baked with herbs, breadcrumbs and hints of melty cheese ambushed between the leaves. So tender, you eat the leaves in their whole form while making your way down to the hearts. Pure artichoke heaven.

Tasty white anchovies graced a “Cesare” salad that was somewhat overdressed with standard dressing. This is where table bread would have risen to the occasion. But we never saw any.

I generally find Margherita pizzas boring—until encountering this one. The pizza easily fed three people and offered a whole lot of love upon first bite with its fresh mozzarella, super-fresh marinara sauce, and warm cherry tomatoes that delivered bursts of sweetness on every slice. The crust follows the classic Roman formula in which a little more olive oil and less water is used in making the dough compared to other recipes. The same crust is used for the folded “pinsa la mortazza” topped with mortadella, ricotta and pistachios.

The two entrees we ordered didn’t disappoint. Our favorite was the pappardelle pasta with a thick, flavorful ragu of ground beef and Italian sausage. As with most pasta dishes, the leftovers tasted equally fantastic the following day. Crab-stuffed ravioli were draped in the kitchen’s smooth red sauce, but with a hint of vodka and cream to boot. They were delicate with a nice, sweet taste of shellfish. The meat inside was actually discernible compared to other seafood ravioli I’ve eaten that are often scantily filled and flavorless. These proved that a few extra pinches of crab meat really make a nice difference.

Other entree options include various cuts of pasta in either cacio e pepe sauce, creamy carbonara made with egg yolks or spicy amatriciana tomato sauce. There are also steak, lamb, chicken and seafood options.

From a list of cocktails featuring sassy descriptions best left unrevealed here, the standouts were a “pornodivo” martini made with vodka, passion fruit, Licor 43 and lime juice. The other was a rum-based “pompilio” balanced by ginger beer, pineapple, lemon and coconut. Both drinks looked and tasted elegant.

For dessert, we skipped tiramisu in lieu of two orb-shaped choices common to central Italy: a house-made doughnut (bombolone) filled with Chantilly cream, and a chocolate pistachio gelato ball enrobed in dark chocolate sauce and minced pistachios. Neither was overly sweet. Nor were they difficult to consume on a full stomach.

Roman Wolves resides in the triple-storefront space previously occupied by the vegan restaurant, Cafe Gratitude. It is appointed in Roman-themed décor such as columns, frescos and patterned floor tiles while managing to escape the kitschiness one might expect. Comfy seating combined also with an accommodating wine list and sharp wait service make it easy to hang around for a while.

Roman Wolves

1980 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy

619-539-7344, romanwolves.com

Prices: Antipasti, soups and salads, $14 to $20; pizzas, $18 to $20; pasta dishes and main entrees, $24 to $48