February can be a dreary month – even in San Diego. And this year, being a leap year, an extra day is added, for better or worse. Granted, the month does have Groundhog Day, Valentine’s Day, and Presidents Day – if you’re into those kinds of things.

But in the land of West Coast IPAs, the craft beer geeks know something wonderful is brewing in February – and that it takes this damp and dull month up to another level.

Since 2005, Russian River Brewing Co. has released Pliny the Younger – a limited-edition first-of-its-kind triple IPA – for two hoppy weeks in February. And then it’s gone, until next year.

At first, beer lovers had to flock to Santa Rosa in Northern California to get a taste. Eventually, after a few years, the brewery selected certain bars throughout the state as being Pliny-worthy. These bars receive a keg – maybe two if they are lucky – and have tapping parties for those in the know (it’s kind of a big deal).

There are just a few places in San Diego that receive the special brew, and in Pacific Beach, there is only one – SD TapRoom on Garnet Avenue. Tapping time was 10 a.m. on Saturday, Feb. 24. The line started to form at 8:30 a.m. At about 9:50 a.m., nearly 200 people had lined up, filling the sidewalk going west all the way to Wingstop.

When the SD TapRoom door finally opened at 10 a.m., a cavalcade of dudes, bros, babes, and babies filled the bar and the staff buzzed around taking orders and pouring drafts. But there was a catch. Only the first 100 receive one full portion (10 ounces). The next 100 – or until it runs dry – receive 5-ounce samplers. That way, more people will get a taste, and learn a lesson about waking up earlier.

The first two in line were Herb and Marnie from Pacific Beach. They arrived at 8:30 a.m. The couple behind them showed up a few minutes later. They drove down from Temecula.

“It’s an annual tradition for me,” Herb said. “I’ve been coming here for 10 years. Before, I would visit Russian River Brewery, but it’s a lot easier coming here.”

Herb’s partner Marnie isn’t fond of the beer, so Herb gets to drink her 10 ounces as well (lucky fella).

“I like this year’s recipe,” Herb added. “I’m happy.”

Russian River tweaks the recipe every year. This year’s Pliny the Younger – the 20th anniversary of the brew – is triple dry-hopped with Simcoe, Amarillo, Citra, Mosaic, Elixir, Nectaron, and Warrior while packing a punch at 10.25% ABV. The beer is loaded with citrus, stone fruit, orange slice

candies, and a slight pine/resin character from the Simcoe. They also added a bit more Nectaron, which is noticeable with the orange/citrus/candied fruit. It is also slightly more bitter than in 2023, contributing to a harmonic balance between aroma, flavor, and mouthful, according to the Russian River website.

But what’s with that name? Do men need to think of the Roman Empire more than they already do?

Pliny the Younger was the nephew and adopted son of Pliny the Elder (the name of the brewery’s year-round IPA, brewed before the Younger was conceived). He was a lawyer and an author in Ancient Rome and witnessed the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD, which took the life of his uncle while trying to save others.

Pliny the Younger lived from 61 AD to 112 AD. He wrote many letters that survive today and have great historical value. “We thought it was only appropriate to also pay tribute to Pliny the Elder’s nephew by naming this special beer after him,” according to the brewery.