It was the lure of ossobucco tacos with a bayside perch along the Seaport Village boardwalk that steered a friend and I on a short hunt to Quiero Tacos. We arrived separately about 10 minutes apart to discover that the business is embedded within Mike Hess Brewing, which distracts from Quiero’s understated signage.

The two-level structure sits at the north end of the “village” complex with windows that open up to ships, pedestrians and the nearby pier. Blink twice, and you might walk right past it.

A young, astute Hector Aguirre runs the family-owned business, which started in partnership with Hess several years ago at Quiero’s original Imperial Beach location. He explained that Quiero is an independent kitchen. He also pointed out that “quiero,” which in Spanish means “I want,” was chosen for its whimsical appeal. It carries a mascot owl stating, “Because we give a hoot.”

We focused only on Quiero’s food offerings and happily passed on drinking from the numerous Hess beer taps. As a disclaimer, I’ve never been fond of Hess Brewing products because I find them underwhelming. Nor do I support Mike Hess’ right-wing politics, which he has publicly expressed over the years on local television and social media. It simply comes down to him using his political voice and my consumer reaction to it.

With biases awkwardly cast aside, we seized an upstairs high top and started with a generous portion of green chilaquiles. The well-composed dish is found on the breakfast menu, which is available from 8:30 to 11:30 a.m., on Saturdays and Sundays. It featured a stacking of non-greasy tortilla chips (fried in corn oil) that were strewn judiciously with tomatillo-based salsa, onions, tomatoes and crema fresca. Crowned with a pair of over-medium eggs, their oozing yolks added richness while the chips maintained their delicate crunch amid the wet ingredients. Good stuff.

Aguirre pointed out that his team collaborates with “a chef” in devising the recipes. The ossobucco tacos, for example, are a fancy creation involving beef that is braised for six hours. It’s similar in texture to birria, but juicier. Adding further joy are mushrooms, Serrano peppers and buttery asadero cheese—all folded into a semi-crispy corn tortilla.

“Holy-viche” is a clever word play to describe Quiero’s substantial ceviche comprising lime-marinated mahi mahi plus diced avocado, cucumbers, mango and pico de gallo. The super fresh ingredients were the dish’s strong point. But the puzzling lack of juices from the lime, tomato and mango was its weakness. As a result, the cubed fish was dry.

We proceeded to a couple of other tacos, all of which are moderate in size and liberally stuffed. Ranking as our second favorite after the ossobucco taco was the carnitas. Though classic with its garnishments of guacamole, onions and fresh cilantro, the meat captured the homespun flavor you’d expect from pork that Aguirre said is slow roasted for eight hours. The taco contained big, dense chunks of it.

A spicy shrimp taco delivered its promised kick, thanks to squiggles of chipotle-lime aioli over the top. But we both agreed that the medium-size shrimp were overcooked.

The taco selection is diverse. Choices extend to achiote-spiced salmon; scallops with poblano peppers; chorizo with pineapple; and steak and shrimp with cabbage. Vegetarians are in luck with options such as zucchini with olives, corn and black beans; portobello mushrooms with asadero cheese and chilies; and others. To my regret, I didn’t notice the menu listing for elote-style corn on the cob until afterwards. It’s a Mexican sidekick I normally never pass up.

A few specialty plates and one dessert option exist. We’re told the California burrito using Angus steak, and the fish and chips made with panko-battered white fish are top sellers. Sweet tooths can cop their sugar fix with caramel-stuffed churros.

ACE Parking operates Seaport Village’s parking lot, which means you will be gouged if you don’t self-validate your ticket at a device somewhere inside the Hess establishment. We didn’t learn about the option until the following day. (If there are signs or wait staff telling customers about it, we missed both.)

The regular rate is $8 per hour. If you go even partially into a second hour, or the third or fourth, you are charged another $8 each time. Validation, however, supposedly gives you three hours for $5 on weekdays, or two hours for that price on weekends—a fitting lesson these days to eat, drink and spend wisely.

Quiero Tacos

879 W. Harbor Drive, Ste. 14-E

619-230-5433; quierorestaurants.com

Precios: $4.95 to $14; tacos, $3.95 to $5.95; specialty plates, $12.45 to $15.95; breakfast (8:30 to 11:30 a.m., Saturdays and Sundays), $3.75 to $16.75.

Photos by Frank Sabatini Jr.