Too many years ago to remember (much less admit), an ex kindly invited me out for a many-splendored evening of wine, rice and monkey brain. That last part drew a flinch of ignorance, as primates aren’t exactly a delicacy in this culture, or at least not a willing one; but as the relationship was new and stuff, I tagged along. 
I’m glad I did, because it turned out Natalie was talking about sushi, something for which I’ve since developed quite a favorable taste.
Until now, though, I’d found it in strip-mall restaurants and the like, with the eateries touting its popularity and convenience in the manner of the laundromat next door. That’s why Himitsu, the latest sushi restaurant to grace the Village, is such an important find. An absolutely immaculate decor and excruciatingly painstaking detail to attention elevate this time-honored Japanese delicacy to the cultural icon it is, the raw fish of yore becomes a life-infusing phenomenon, its preparation patterned after Tokyo’s finest eateries and its effect an experience even an expert like Nat couldn’t foresee.
House bowls are awash in tuna here, as succulent as the air you’ll breathe. Those who like their garnish will adore the Sashimi Salad and its tuna, albacore and yellowtail swimming in seaweed and ginger, with radishes and jalapeno spicing the Tuna Heaven bowl to taste. Edamame soybean pods are at the ready, their inertness mixing taste aftertaste the way such quality condiments should. 
The sashimi roll menu presents a challenge in itself, no fewer than 24 entries appeal to every appetite. Tako and Anago are designed with the eel and octopus lover in mind (and such sushi veterans are out there), with Kinme Dai and Ikura offering more conventional flavors like snapper and salmon. Nat had tapped my unknown taste for octopus later on; I’m absolutely wild about it now, as my inhalation of four Tako rolls the other day reflects. 
Himitsu has thought of everything, as the remainder of the menu indicates. Cucumber and California rolls, Spanish mackerel, fried oysters and rib-eye beef are on the docket, flanked by a list of pinot grigio and rose wines, sake and beer (Hitachino’s on tap!). It’s all served amid that wonderful decor, with its clean mahogany lines, generous lighting immaculate seating and plant-lined patio reflecting a singular experience. “Himitsu” is Japanese for “secret,” which aptly describes the snugness of its 30-seat locale. Address: 1030 Torrey Pines Rd. Ste. G
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m.; closed Sundays
Contact: himitsusd.com or call 858-263-4463