It is safe to say the restaurant industry has mostly rebounded from the shutdowns that began in early 2020 because of the pandemic. New restaurants continue sprouting. Menus over the past year have slightly expanded. And nearly all of those curbside dining parklets have been dismantled.
Still, consumers such as myself have scaled back from dining out because of inflation, despite signs of it easing over the past several months.
For this diner, moderately priced comfort meals ruled the year in restaurants throughout San Diego. With them came a fair number of dishes that I can count among my favorites as we approach 2025 with continued zeal for San Diego’s culinary scene.
Dry-aged duck
Because of its modestly generous portion and steep price, the smoked dry-aged duck at Kingfisher in Golden Hill should be shared, if only to witness your dining mates utter moans of pleasure in unison. The duck is the restaurant’s signature dish. It’s moist and well-textured, plus it’s served with raw veggies, rice noodles and chimichurri sauce amid a splendidly designed interior. The menu extends to several other outstanding Asian-inspired dishes such as Chinese sausage pate and grilled Japanese eggplant with chili vinaigrette and mint. 2469 Broadway, 619-432-1014, kingfishersd.com.
Coq au vin
An expertly braised chicken leg and thigh complemented by leeks, potatoes, carrots and herbs—and bathed in red wine—offered warmth at Et Voila in North Park during 2024’s cold, rainy winter. The classic French dish can be found at several other restaurants around town. Still, I best enjoyed it within these charming, Parisian-like confines along with a crusty baguette imported from France. 3015 Adams Ave., 619-209-7759, etvoilabistro.com.
Momo chicken dumplings
Nestled among several blocks of Mexican shops and restaurants in Old Town is an unexpected Himalayan restaurant called Bhojan Griha (pronounced BO-jan Gree-ha). In repeat visits that have ensued since 2023, my go-to dish remains the steamed Nepalese-style momo chicken dumplings, which are made onsite. Their sturdy dough casings capture an aromatic blend of minced chicken, onions, cilantro and secret spices from a land far away. The dumplings are served in a thin tomato sauce that also tastes wonderfully novel. 2367 San Diego Ave., 619-294-5770; bhojangrihaoldtown.com.
Rye pierogi
Yet another type of dumpling swooned my palate this year—that being a foursome of rye pierogi at Artifact inside Balboa Park’s Mingei International Museum. Acclaimed chef Tim Kolanko gives these Eastern European half-moons memorable flair by draping them in cremini mushrooms and cream. Their deep, earthy flavor is further enhanced by dill, chive and caraway. 1439 El Prado, 619-704-7523, mingei.org/visit/artifact.
T-bone steak
With all due respect to the exceptional, succulent steaks found at places like Cowboy Star in the East Village, Rare Society in University Heights, and Born & Raised in Little Italy, the T-bone steak that is usually served as part of Cardellino’s “Tuscan experience” in Mission Hills sent us over the moon. This Italian-style steakhouse is part of San Diego’s Trust Restaurant Group founded by chef Brad Wise, who offers the four-person feast nightly. The flame-cooked steak was tender and unctuous and took on an addicting chary flavor from a blend of oak and hickory wood. 4033 Goldfinch St., 619-600-5311, cardellinosd.com.
Classic French omelet
A jaunt to Toasted in La Mesa is where I discovered an omelet that would pass muster by any accomplished French chef. Many breakfast-brunch places in San Diego County don’t always get it right, although this kitchen accurately sent out an evenly cooked cylindrical omelet that was sunny-yellow from end to end with nary an overcooked edge to be found. A streak of Boursin cheese inside and parsley garnish on top gave the omelet an A-rating. 8555 Fletcher Parkway, #104, La Mesa, 619-460-8555, toastedgastrobrunch.com.
Chicken schnitzel
The newish fast-casual Hamitbach in Mission Valley attracts flocks of customers for its wholesome, kosher interpretation of Israeli street food. Aside from outstanding shawarma and kebabs—and beautifully creamy hummus—the chicken schnitzel is noteworthy. It’s made with breast meat that is pounded wafer-thin, then coated with panko and sesame seeds before being fried to a crisp finish. It’s remarkably non-greasy. I opted for the schnitzel on a baguette while pointing to an array of included toppings such as tahini sauce, hummus and various fresh veggies. (On Fridays, you can get your schnitz on challah bread.) 5664 Mission Center Road, #402, 619-272-0182, hamitbachstreetfood.com/missioncenter