By Frank Sabatini Jr. | Restaurant Review

From the man who brings us ginormous meal portions at Hash House a Go Go and puts a slick twist on game meats at The Tractor Room comes the sophisticated little sister of the two, charming us with her soft French accent and roving food boards.

Welcome to Great Maple, a brasserie-meets-diner housed in the mid-century building that operated as Topsy’s from 1963 to 1998, and then Brians’ American Eatery until 2012. Its latest incarnation is the brainchild of Johnny Rivera, who spared the landmark property from possibly becoming an IHOP.

“I used to come here as a little kid with my father when it was Topsy’s,” Rivera said, emphasizing that his custom redesign “stays true to the energy of the building.”

The interior features a terrazzo bar, crown molding, punch-button upholstery and a rebuilt kitchen. Above it hangs tweed-covered speakers that correspond to a turntable designated for use during happy hour, from 5 to 6:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays. On the outdoor patio, designer cinder blocks bring Palm Springs to mind. Overall, the feel is both retro and rustic but without appearing forced.

A few surprises orbit Great Maple’s menu, which feeds us a little bit of everything: pastas, seafood, chops, sandwiches, flatbreads and the like. But at any given time and at the sound of a bell, the kitchen sends out spontaneous appetizers or bacon-speckled glazed donuts stacked on long wooden planks. Servers circulate the boards throughout the dining room, allowing customers to make “impulse purchases” tableside.

Visiting for dinner with a devoted customer who urged me to momentarily cast aside our lobster poutine when a board floated past, I tried my first bacon donut. The thing was hot, fresh and mouthwatering, and not the schizophrenic flavor profile I’ve encountered elsewhere when bacon lands in chocolate cake or ice cream. This tasted natural, much like a complete pancake breakfast.

Poutine is a French-Canadian dish involving French fries tossed in thin gravy and cheese curds. Here, it’s swooped up generously with chunks of Maine lobster, truffle oil and fresh chives. Miraculously, the sweetness of the lobster meat wasn’t compromised. Though listed as a starter, it qualifies as a full entrée if you choose not to share it.

Passing over a slate of other tempting appetizers such as mini beef Wellingtons, spicy grilled prawns and asparagus with egg, we encroached on the St. Germaine niçoise salad with creamy tarragon dressing accenting seared ahi, potatoes, green beans and a hard boiled egg. Equally refined was a white asparagus salad from the specials board.

Then came a flatbread pizza topped with artichoke hearts and Portobello mushrooms. The big draw was Taleggio cheese, an Italian curd coveted for its pungent aroma and mild, tangy flavor. Termed sometimes as “the Cadillac of mozzarella,” it doesn’t appear on many menus around town, so get it when you can.

Great Maple’s allusion of a “French dinette,” as Rivera likes to call it, is evidenced strongly through its wine list, which spotlights pleasant picks from the Alsatian, Bordeaux and Rhone regions. Creative and traditional cocktails also fuel the atmosphere. We savored a bottle of Domaine de Cristia from southern Rhone, a semi-fruity Grenache with enough discernible tannins to elevate the flavor of red meat.

My companion fell ecstatically silent over the “tale of two lambs,” which combined on the same plate three meaty chops cooked perfectly medium and a cast iron skillet of lamb Shepherd’s pie capped with an airy, house-baked popover. In spite of the alluring French influence of mirepoix and cream in the Shepherd’s pie, it was difficult deciding which lamb told the best tale.

I chose the “famous beef dip” served with onion au jus and horseradish sour cream. As the menu reliably states, the sliced rib eye “has got some good ole tasty fat on it.” Rightfully so since it contributed classic flavor and wasn’t overwhelming. But the jus wasn’t as robust. I would have preferred it saltier and beefier, although I give the kitchen kudos for serving the sandwich on a well-buttered roll.

Other entrées include duo of duck, New Zealand blue nose sea bass, venison chili and a 10-ounce Calvados pork chop. There’s also German-style bratwurst served on pretzel buns with sauerkraut.

Desserts are made fresh daily, with the mainstay being individual apple pies flaunting salted caramel and spiced pecans. For added fabulousness, we opted for the addition of Vermont cheddar cheese. A slice of silky key lime pie tasted ordinary in comparison, delivering a medium level of citrus contrasted against a sweet, sturdy crust.

Rivera’s concept for Great Maple hails from the parent location in Newport Beach that he opened two years ago. “But this is the uber version,” he said, referring to the bakery line and menus tailored separately to brunch, lunch and dinner. In doing so, he’s created an eatery that smartly blends a good measure of panache with relaxed informality.

Great Maple
1451 Washington St. (Hillcrest)
619-255-2282
Prices: breakfast, $7 to $23; lunch, $8 to $25; dinner, $7 to $34