Renowned surfing historian and editor Chris Ahrens’ 12th book is all about the lifestyle that evolved, and the colorful characters who emerged, during the formative years of surfing in La Jolla’s Windansea neighborhood.

Titled “WINDANSEA: Life. Death. Resurrection,’ Ahrens will discuss his newest book at 7 p.m. Wednesday, Jan. 8 at D.G. Wills Books, 7461 Girard Ave.

In Ahrens’ book, fans will find out plenty about legends at La Jolla’s Windansea Beach from 1937 to 1981 who pioneered surfing locally, like Woody Brown, who first rode Windansea in 1937. They’ll also learn about the storied Mac Meda Destruction Company and Windansea Surf Club, as well as famed surfboard makers and riders like Butch Van Artsdalen, Mike Hynson, Tom Ortner, Brew Briggs, and Chris O’Rourke.

Best of all, there are 50 full-page archival photos by La Jolla surf photographer Jeff Divine who’s worked with Surfer Magazine featured in Ahrens’ latest 156-page book.

“This book about Windansea began in the summer of 1980 when I sat with Windansea local and one of the world’s top surfers, Chris O’Rourke, who died from Hodgkin’s disease the following year,” said Ahrens. “He told fascinating, cinematic tales. While I never published Chris’s entire story, I’m glad I kept my notes. Two decades after O’Rourke’s departure, Surfer’s Journal requested I do an extensive feature on Windansea.”

Ahrens discussed his book, localism, and the emergence of the surfing lifestyle in a far-ranging interview with the San Diego Community Newspaper Group.

About Woody Brown, Ahrens pointed out Brown had “never seen a surfboard in his life” before he “found a piece of driftwood on the beach,” which subsequently prompted him to “make a surfboard that was like an airplane wing.”

There are numerous misconceptions about surfing, one being that it is a modern invention, noted Ahrens. “Surfing is as old as mankind,” he said. “There are cave paintings of surfing in Peru dating back 4,000 years.”

Of Windansea, Ahrens noted that it’s a “cultural story as much as it’s a surfing story, about the youth culture before hippies and the surfing movement. It’s a synthesis of the musical style, language, and dress of that period. It’s sort of Hawaiian culture meets the beat poets.”

Asked what he’d like readers to get out of his book, Ahrens replied: “I would like them to come away with a feeling of the paradise that can be had for anybody with a passion. That serving your passion is a road to enlightenment.”

Of surfing localism, Ahrens admits that (locals only) surf attitude was a very real thing back in the day, which those who ever challenged it found out. He added though that it has diminished over time. “People had their cars turned over and dog crap smeared on their windows,” he said of those who violated localism. “Windansea is a tight-knit community. There used to be a sign around, that was never posted, that said, ‘Surf break, If you don’t live here – don’t surf here.’”

Ahrens explained the meaning behind life, death, and resurrection used in his new book’s title. “Most people walking around are half dead and they don’t even know it,” he quipped. “When you’re riding a good wave, you’re fully alive – and you know it. You feel it all day and it rocks you to sleep. It’s such a rich feeling.”

Surfing is transformational having become more than a sport or a pastime for Ahrens. I wouldn’t call it a hobby or a sport,” he concluded. “A surfer knows the feeling. It’s not describable.”

What is the surf ethic in Ahrens’ books all about? “That the most important things in life are friends and waves,” he answered. “That the central theme of surfing is friendship. That’s what’s beautiful. Everything else fades: But you sure remember the friends.”

“Windansea: Life. Death. Resurrection” is available at D.G. Wills, Mitch’s Surf Shop, 631 Pearl St. in La Jolla, and Bird’s Surf Shed at 1091 W Morena Blvd. It can also be purchased directly through Ahrens for $89. Checks can be mailed to Chris Ahrens, P.O. Box 482, San Luis Rey, CA 92068. For more information, email [email protected].

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Chris Ahrens was first published in Surfer Magazine in 1973. Since then, he has written for every major surfing magazine in the U.S. and occasionally served as a magazine editor. He is an award-winning documentarian, a weekly columnist for the Coast News, and a regular contributor to The San Diego Reader. His four popular books of surf stories culminate in his latest work, “Windansea: Life. Death. Resurrection.”

Surf Legend Woodbridge “Woody” Parker Brown (1912-2008) – An American surfer and watercraft designer best known for inventing the modern catamaran, Brown was also instrumental in promoting the growth of surfing in the mainland United States. Among his accomplishments in surfboard shaping was an early fin design. Inspired by Lindbergh, Brown bought a glider for $25 and towed it to California. For the next five years, he was an active member of a small group of pioneering gliders who survived some spectacular crashes. He was the first to launch a glider off the cliffs at La Jolla and in 1939 set a new world record for altitude, distance, and time aloft by flying his glider, Thunderbird, 263 miles from Texas to Kansas.

Brown began body-surfing in California on a carved wooden plank, using it in a style now known as boogie-boarding. Realizing that if he could stand up he could catch waves before they broke, he used glider construction techniques to build his first hollow plywood surfboard in 1936, a forerunner of modern boards. Brown was one of Hawaii’s first big-wave surfers and board designers. A surfing spot in Lahaina is nicknamed after him.